Learn more about Starting your puppy on RAW
I have 3 week old bulldog puppies are happily eating up veal mince, egg and goat milk. Two of these puppies will stay to live with me. The others have lovely RAW FEED homes.
By the time these puppies go home, they’ll have eaten chicken, turkey, beef, pork, lamb, venison, rabbit and much more. We have found the more you introduce at a young age the more they will tolerate change.
When you bring home a new puppy that was not raised on raw, it can be a bit trickier to get him started. Don’t be afraid or intimidated. There are just a few guidelines to follow to avoid digestive upset as your puppy transitions from kibble to raw food.
How much do I feed? is a common question we get asked. 5% of the dogs body weight up until the dog is 12 months old then they go to 2-3% of there adult body weight.
Before I start, I’d like to address the issue that many people have with feeding large breed puppies raw.
I’ve raised every litter and puppies in the last twenty one years on raw. And I’ve never had one of my puppies fail his hips and elbows as we breed Rottweilers as well. Yes, it’s important to balance the calcium and phosphorus content in the food, but it’s easy to do with raw food. With all the dog food recalls of the past this also makes it a safer option than kibble.
Here are a few tips for getting your puppy started on raw with a minimum of fuss and loads of benefits.
I don't recommend mixing kibble with the raw meat requires a different pH in the gut to digest, it will make your puppy more susceptible to the bacteria in the raw meats. They are capable of handling this bacteria just fine. But once you add in artificial foods, the meat will sit in his digestive tract twice as long. This means there’s a much greater chance of harmful bacteria building up.
Regardless of whether you’re preparing your own raw or are using a prepared raw food, it’s best to start with one protein source. Give that one protein for a good week. If there are no signs of digestive upset, start your puppy on a second source of protein, and so on. I always recommend starting with chicken first, then move to a red meat like beef, then to a seafood then back to a white meat.
Adding calcium is fairly easy to do. If you view a turkey neck as a nice meaty bone, then your puppy’s diet should have a consumable meeting bone like a neck or frame every 2nd day. There’s no magic formula and every puppy is a bit different.
Despite what the kibble manufacturers say, it’s pretty easy to balance calcium and phosphorus. Plus, there’s a wider margin of error when feeding raw. Calcium that comes in a synthetic powder is nearly impossible for a puppy to excrete and by adding this you can cause major bone deformities . This means an excess of calcium is more of a concern with synthetic products than with the naturally occurring calcium found in bones as the body can naturally absorb what they need and get rid of what they don't.
Turkey tails and necks
Chicken backs and necks
Veal ribs and tails
Venison bones of any kind
Chicken feet and beef windpipes (good source of naturally occurring glucosamine and chondroitin)
Beef neck bones (a great chew that won’t break teeth)
Balanced foods (feed these often)
Eggs with shell
Whole animals (rabbit, quail, etc.)
Liver and other organ meats needs to be added only 10% in total and if they are only new to raw slowly add this as it can cause loose stools in puppies. If your puppy is new to raw feeding, wait until you see a good two or more weeks of solid stools before you introduce organ meats. Then add them in gradually instead of feeding one giant meal of liver. And remember to mix them up – don’t just feed liver try other things like pancreas, spleen.
We also add our Baby Bark Natural to the mix as this gives them all the vitamins and minerals a growing puppy will need.
If you are not sure then please just ask send us a message on facebook and we will get back to you straight away, we are happy to help.